Kanda Matsuya

Set along the streets of Kanda Sudacho, Kanda Matsuya is a longstanding establishment that preserves the traditional spirit of Edo-style soba dining. Housed in a charming wooden building, the dining room has an unpretentious, bustling warmth where strangers routinely share tables as they enjoy fresh noodles made from stone-ground buckwheat flour.

A natural place to begin is the mori soba, which anchors the downtown Edo noodle heritage. Firm, thin-cut noodles are dipped briskly into a dark, punchy tsuyu broth driven by bonito dashi, delivering a smooth throat-feel and the clean, nutty fragrance of fresh buckwheat. Those looking for variation can turn to goma soba, paired with a rich, nutty sesame sauce, or the luxurious tempura soba topped with two plump kuruma prawns.

Part of the joy of eating here lies in "sobamae"—the practice of having small bites and a drink before the noodles arrive. Soba miso, a savoury roasted buckwheat-miso paste served with beer or sake, pairs seamlessly with skewered yakitori done with tare sauce or salt, lightly grilled jakoten fish cakes, or pungent leafy wasabi.

Once the noodles are finished, diners pour hot sobayu (buckwheat cooking water) into the leftover dipping cup to sip the diluted broth and complete the meal. Payment is strictly cash only, and the restaurant is closed on Sundays and Mondays.